Wednesday, November 24, 2010

1965 Impala points need to be changed?

My buddy just got a 65 impala from a friend and the guy said that the points need to be changed. The guy had a tune up on it, wires, distributor cap, rotor button, plugs, and the car wants to turn over but just wont. Any ideas? And if it is the points how do we go about changing them? Also one of the back wheels will not turn, not sure why, they had to drag it onto a trailer. Possibly just needs to be cleaned with braked cleaner or something to loosen up the wheel because I think the car has been sitting for a pretty good time. Any suggestions?1965 Impala points need to be changed?
you can get to the points by taking off the dist cap vaccum advance module and the lower plate and take out the condenser (little round thing) and the points and gap them to the gap specified in a chiltons manual you can just look through the book at the part store to find the gap the rear tire locking up if it has the original or close to original brake pads the tire is locked because the brake pad has rusted to the rotor if it is drum brake than the brake shoe is rusted to the drum just repalace them and your prob will be fixed1965 Impala points need to be changed?
the points are inside the distributor and if they are not gaped to 30mm it won't start .but if you just had a tune up that would be part of it ,the back wheel is the emergency brake on.1965 Impala points need to be changed?
wants to turn over or wants to start? the points are under the distributor cap and will need to be gapped when the cam on the shaft opens them. you do not have to remove all the stuff the other guy said to remove them. if it is trying to start it may just be that they are not set right, or have corrosion on the contacts which can be fixed by using an emery board( for nails) to kinda buff them up by sticking it in between them and lightly sanding them. the stuck wheel is a shoe sticking, as you have enough sense to make sure the ebrake is off. sometimes hammering around on the drum will free them up.

Intermittent miss now full time?

I have a 93 t-100 p/u 334,000 miles, ran strong, always over 20 mpg's then an intermittent miss started, than went to full time miss, I did the easy stuff, new plugs, wires, rotor and new distributor cap, unfortunately it didn't do the trick, I started removing one plug wire at a time while engine running to identify the bad cyl. notice 2 and 6 does not change how the engine is idling, did a compression test and seems as though all are around 125 psi. any ideas, I thought injector, but 2 of them to go bad at the same time, I think would be unlikely, any Ideas or other things to try???? I luv my truckIntermittent miss now full time?
low fuel pessure and or injectors..

What is the deal with Yahoo! spell check?

Is there any way to disable the spell checker while you're writing answers? I need it once in a while, but usually it's just ignorant and distracting. %26quot;Camaro%26quot;, (spell check just popped on, lol) for example. I know how to spell %26quot;Camaro%26quot;. There's no %26quot;e%26quot; in %26quot;Camaro%26quot;. I use %26quot;Camaro%26quot; in many of my answers. And every time I do, the spell check tells me to change it to %26quot;Camry%26quot;. I don't THINK so.

And yet, the last answer I gave had the word %26quot;munged%26quot; in it. As in %26quot;My distributor cap was all munged up.%26quot;

Is that even a word? But not a peep out of spell check. Now don't you think %26quot;Camaro%26quot; or %26quot;Monza%26quot; (another one I use sometimes) are used in conversation more than %26quot;munged%26quot;?

I don't know why this bothers me. It just does. It even made me change %26quot;spellcheck%26quot; to %26quot;spell check%26quot;.

Oops! it looks like I have 8 misspelling(s) in this question. lol Oops, now that's nine.What is the deal with Yahoo! spell check?
I just ignore Yahoo! Spell check and only pay attention to the one in Firefox, which I can train myself (right-click a flagged word, click %26quot;Add to Dictionary%26quot;).What is the deal with Yahoo! spell check?
It ain't a perfect world, and spell checkers are not 100% reliable.

If you want to avoid typing your answers in YA type them in WORD, then simply copy and paste your answers to YA.What is the deal with Yahoo! spell check?
Its just this stupid thing to help the computer think it is smart when realy those of us who know what were are doing are the ones who get most annoyedWhat is the deal with Yahoo! spell check?
Ya I wish.Try typing in a proper name or a web site.Ducati and drives the machine into overdrive

Scooter still not working. What else could be the problem?

Scooter died the other day, put in a new spark plug and fuel filter today, it's still not working. Took it for a test spin afterwards, didn't make it out of the neighborhood. Walked it back home a short ways, tried restarting it, pumping the throttle vigorously until the bike started again and made it back home.

What normally happens: It starts up good the first time but after a few minutes or so, the engine goes out. It just gives up and dies. This happens whether it is idling or in throttle. From start to stop: idle sounds like it is smooth and steady at first, then gaspy and barely holding on. During throttle, it sounds/moves good at first, but then the bike stops, refuses to move, then the engine gives up. I don't know how to explain it except that it reminds me of a gasping or choking sound.

I did change the oil a week and a half ago, a week later it started giving me this problem. The recommendation is 4-stroke 10w-30 motor oil. I couldn't find that (anywhere), so I put in 4-stroke 10w-40 motor oil. Also, it's recommended to use 90+ gas, I use 91 and non-flammable oil should be added to the air filter, but I can't find any so I haven't done that yet, but last I checked the filter looked fine. Fuel filter didn't look too bad, a tiny speck of gunk but nothing major, still wanted to upgrade it from the factory part though. I don't think (or really know) that these are the issue or not, but I figured I'd add it in just in case.

The spark plug when pulled today did have a bunch of gunk buildup around it though. It also had a burn mark line running along the casing that I think was caused by the edge line of the distrubitor cap and the very top tip of the plug that connects inside of the distributor cap, looked slightly warped and burned off.

I'm taking it into the shop tomorrow to get it looked at, I called and told them that I want the carb looked at (forgot to mention the spark plug issues). Since the bike is only 3 months old, has new oil, new sparkplug and new fuel filter, and the gas is of the right octane; the last thing that I can think of is clogged jets in the carb.

With all of this: What do think is the problem?Scooter still not working. What else could be the problem?
Sounds like it could one of 2 things. The breather for the fuel tank is blocked so the bike will run ok for a while until the vacuum created inside the fuel tank becomes so great that not enough fuel will come out and the engine will stall. Not sure what you mean by distributor cap (scooters don't have them) It could be that the spark plug cap is breaking down when it gets hot and the HV spark is tracking down the outside of the spark plug, instead of going across the electrodes as it should.

I doubt that it is the jets blocked. The bike would run like crap right from initial starting.Scooter still not working. What else could be the problem?
Not sure what scooter you have here but some scoots have a charcoal filter for fuel overflows and this can cause an issue.

Let the dealer do their job and provide them with as much information as you can.

Starting 1966 beetle w/1300cc engine, sat for 20 years?

i have found what will be my first car (in a junkyard now). it needs floor pans, some interior work, bondo, blocking, and paint but for the most part, it is worth the money. everything is straight and it only has surface rust. it also has the one year only 1300cc flat 4 VW engine. the great thing about these old VWs is that parts are abundant and cheap (those floor pans are only $220 and bolt in).

my question is, how do i get a 43 year old car, that sat for half its life, to run again. i already know that i am replacing and gaping plugs, raplacing gas, changing the motor oil, getting a new oil filter and cleaning out the carb (maybe a new distributor cap is also a good idea). but will i also need to replace fuel lines or other odds and ends like that? and will i also have to tear the engine down and rebuild it? i havent yet checked if the crank pulley turns or not. this car also has about 56,000 miles and change on the speedo.

thanks for any information.Starting 1966 beetle w/1300cc engine, sat for 20 years?
Oh, yes, you have to replace ALL the lines, just to be careful. An engine that sat for 20+ years? Yes, definitely tear down and rebuilt. Check all the suspension parts, and so on. old Beetles are simple, air cooled and all that, so at least you have no belts and hoses (much) to worry about. Count yourself lucky.

Consult a VW shop and maybe pay them $100-$150 to help you take a hard look at it.


Kasey C, PC guru since Apple II days

C program run. C program crash. C programmer quit.Starting 1966 beetle w/1300cc engine, sat for 20 years?
you dont have to desmantle the engine normally if the engine has all its parts on exaust manifolds ,filters and spark plugs then dust and sand cant get in easy if ..the engine stayed all this time open then sand gets in it will ruin it when u start it..if not .. just check the oil also to see how much dirt it has in the engine..

just change all the parts (plugs,oil etc)... but first before you waste any money see if the crank pulley moves ....Starting 1966 beetle w/1300cc engine, sat for 20 years?
i started one after 15 years all i did was put some gas in. but replace all hoses and the gas tank is gonna be full of rust just get a new one. the old fuel pump will need rebuilt due to the fiber gasket innards will shred under load they will be dry and hard. rebuild the brake system and you should be good from there
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  • Chrysler sebring 2000 2.5l car wont start!?

    I know naturally its a pain to solve some problems on this car. But it cranks over just fine, just won't start. This is what I have tried (2.5L Sebring Conv, 2000)

    I Tested 12v on the 2-way pin to the distributor, I have volts.

    Tested the pulsing between both CAM/Crank Sensor's, Both are pulsing. However, When the cam pulse's it makes a big buzzing sound, and the Crank pulses are random and pulses 7-10 times when turning the crankshaft by hand. Both pulses are reading 5v. (4.97)

    I tested the Ignition Coil Driver (Pin 1 or 6 depends on how you look at it) on the 6-Way Distributor Connection and I am not getting 1.5-2.5V when I try to crank over the engine. The grounds ground the way they should, and I do have good continuity for the ignition coil driver on PCM Connector Pin 4, Just no volts. (Tried testing with wires all together with a paper clip, still no volts.

    I have already swapped out the computer (I was guessing the computer was not calculating the timing right) and it did not fix the prob. I check the timing belt, its timing are right.

    I tested spark a few diff way, with the distributor cap/rotor on with a wire plugged in, With a plug wire directly in the Ignition Coil Tower, and a few other ways.

    I have swapped the ASD Relay out with another one I in the fuse box. I can't find any shorting in any wire I try (That I know of anyway)

    SO the crank/cam sensors are working and sending volts to the PCM. I am getting 12v from the ASD relay to my 2-way pin, I am getting pulsing on my fuel injectors, My Cam/crank sensors are toggling 0-5v, Getting 8.7v on the right CAM/Crank wires, The ground on both Cam/Crank are grounding. The only thing I am not getting is Volts on the Ignition Coil Driver.

    I did the test with the Ignition key (done test before) And as before it shows me no codes. My code reader for the car also shows me no codes. And the buzzing that happens with the cam, the cam shows 5v for every other full rotation of the engine (I think) It does toggle back and forth 0-5v and when the buzzing happens it only happens or is only noticed when I turn the engine by hand. If you think I have over looked something or I have tested something wrong, please send any test you would like me to do. My car has been not running for a month now and could really use the help.

    I am not sure if this will help but heres a link to the all the wireing in the car.

    Just the ignition coil driver (PCM 11 was changed in year 1999-2000 car to PCM 4) Thats the only change I know of.

    Hope this helps!

    Tried almost everything and I am at a lost :(, Please help!%26quot;Chrysler sebring 2000 2.5l car wont start!?
    Sounds to me like YOU should be answering the questions of others. You've done a great deal to try and figure out the problem.


    Their forum is the best when stuff gets this complicated.Chrysler sebring 2000 2.5l car wont start!?
    Hook it up and scan it. A blk/rd wire is the key. Both spark and fuel drivers are PCM located, if the valve timing and grounds and power are present there may be something wrong with the cam, crank timing. A scanner is used first and mechanical inspections next.

    How long until my transmission goes out?

    I have a 2000 mitsubishi eclipse. I'm a mechanic and I specialize in Jaguar, Volvo and Land Rovers. I'm also ASE certified so don't mind using automotive terminology. I have been doing all my oil changes, with eueropean synthetic, and all the maintainance. The car has 135000 miles and has a techtronic 4 speed transmission. Can this car make it until 150000? or am I driving it on borrowed time? The transmission has Mobil one Synthetic transmission fluid (Yes I know Amsoil is better), and the car hard shifts into reverse. Im asking this to know if I should do the big maintainance and a engine overhaul (change all the seals, resurface the heads if I have to) spark plugs, timing belt, wires, distributor cap and all that. I dont wanna do it and have the tranny go out. So.... will it?How long until my transmission goes out?
    My brother drove a 1997 Mercury Sable Wagon that he bought from his parents really cheap. He bought the car with the transmission going out and the check engine light on. He never had to fix anything for the 1.5 years he had the wagon. He drove it slow and went easy on the transmission and it lasted him the whole time before it got really bad. At first it would just slip here and there and shift hard. Then it would slip when he would turn. He got rid of it because he didn't want to out money into to to pass the e-check. Just go easy on the car and it should last a good while longer.

    How do you adjust the valves and rockers in a '95 Mitsubishi Mirage 1.5 litre?

    First of all, I'm not a mechanic. Know just enough to be dangerous and don't mind admitting it. 4 cylinder in my daughters car was dead (no difference in rpm's when you remove plug wire). Decided I was going to take off the valve cover and check the valves and rockers. 4 seemed to have alot of play in the rockers. When I went to get the tools, a friend who was helping bumped the ignition and changed the cylinder position. I didn't look and loosened the rockers to adjust. Anyway, car would not start again. Adjusted back to where I thought they had been originally and got it to start, but dies or almost dies when you put it in gear. What is the spacing on the rockers when they are open? Any ideas why cylinder would be dead? New plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Even tried turning distributor to advance/retard. Still nothing. Just want to get it to where it's driveable again without dying if you stop. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.How do you adjust the valves and rockers in a %26039;95 Mitsubishi Mirage 1.5 litre?
    Ok first thing you need is a compression test in 4 if its below

    100 it could be the valves are to tight,so If I remember right that has a overhead cam.take the cover off tap the ign,so the lobe is pointed up on 4 cylinder.You need two thickness gauges one for the intake valve and one for the exhaust.The intake will be somewhere around .010 if you look at the intake manifold where it goes against the head that will be the intake valve,the other will be the exhaust valve and the exhaust manifold will go up against the head where that lobe is.The adjustment of that one will be about .014 with the engine hot,so if the engine is cold reduce the setting .002,so the intake would be like .008 and the exhaust .012

    now if you do a compression test and its 0-60 you may have burned me for more information lplysocr@aol.comHow do you adjust the valves and rockers in a %26039;95 Mitsubishi Mirage 1.5 litre?
    This was asked and responded to 10 minutes before this posting. BR549 gave a very good answer.

    How to fix a fluctuating idle on a '94 Sentra? PLEASE HELP!!!!?

    I have a 94 Sentra with a rough/fluctuating/inconsistent idle. It stated out that the car would shake and jerk and all kinds of funky stuff while it was under lite load, and progressed to the point where it would stall out when stopped at a light.

    I have given it a full tune up including new plugs and wires, new distributor cap and rotor button, new fuel filter, cleaned out the air filter, oil change with Marvel's Mystery oil (in both tank and oil). I have replaced the clutch (pressure plate and throw out bearing). And I have thoroughly cleaned out the AAC valve, EGR valve, and PCV valve.

    Each time I fix something it gets better and seems to be fixed for good, but the next time i start up, it's back the way it was. I am out of ideas and need help! I know this is a common problem with Sentras, but every suggestion I find leads me back to square 1. PLEASE HELP!!!How to fix a fluctuating idle on a %26039;94 Sentra? PLEASE HELP!!!!?
    You must replace the primary johnson rod couplings with a matrix alternator feed line.How to fix a fluctuating idle on a %26039;94 Sentra? PLEASE HELP!!!!?
    It could be poor compression in one of the cylinders. I'd take it to a Nissan dealership and get it diagnosed.

    What could be wrong with my 1985 Corvette?

    I can't get the check engine light to go out. I've checked all the fuilds they are all good. I've put a new distributor cap, rotor and spark plugs. Then took it to a mechanic to change to oil because it smelt like gas they ran a diagnostic test on it and it came back says to change the ECM fuse which they did and then they ran it again and go a code 52 and they couldn't find what would cause that code. then after they put the ECM fuse in the car started to stall. they told us it could be something with the fuel pressure or something since my dad just put a new fuel pump in last weekend. so we took it home and checked the fuel pressure, pump and filter. there was nothing wrong with that.

    does anyone have any ideas how to fix itWhat could be wrong with my 1985 Corvette?
    Believe it or not the check engine light can come on because of a bad fuel cap. I had this happen once.

    9 times out of 10 the check engine light is on due to some sort of pollution control failure.

    The second time mine come on i ran 2 tanks of super grade fuel and the light went out so you can try that also.

    hope this helps

    russWhat could be wrong with my 1985 Corvette?
    Yeah, try to snip that light. If it's running good and a mechanic can't find it. Might as well do something about that lightWhat could be wrong with my 1985 Corvette?
    Put a good ODB1 scanner on it and check the dealer or GM website for vehicle specific coding. A good scanner will record all info and tell you what is causing the problem
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  • 1990 dodge ram oxygen sensor + fuel pump?

    I am debating on changing my oxygen sensor in my 1990 dodge ram d150 5.2l. My engine stalls when I am idling in every position EXCEPT park. Park works great. It will not stall if I give it a steady stream of gas. My truck hates stop lights and stop signs.. haha...

    Anyhow, how the heck do you change one? I've found it on the vehicle, and it looks like I'd have to drop parts of the exhaust system to do it. Any advice? I can't afford to take it to a shop. Should I bother with this?

    Tomorrow I plan to check the :


    distributor cap

    catalytic converter clogged

    compression check

    new spark plugs

    oxygen sensor

    oil change

    I was also told it might be the fuel pump, but I doubt it. I can hear the fuel pump working well. My fuel pump is in the tank, how hard would it be to replace that? What steps would be involved?

    I've checked/replaced - air and fuel filters, pcv valve, checked for vacuum leaks, checked for correct firing order.

    What should I do next?1990 dodge ram oxygen sensor + fuel pump?
    it sounds to me like a sensor my guess would be the idol air sensor they are well known for that in lots of cars1990 dodge ram oxygen sensor + fuel pump?
    i would remove the idle air control motor first and make sure the passageways are clean, you may also want to clean the throttle plates.

    If fuel pump were failing your truck would most likely idle OK but would have a severe lack of power when trying to accelerate.

    Failing catalytic converter can cause lack of power but would not affect idle in certain gears.

    Tune up components (and oxygen sensor) could cause it to run rough but usually do not cause vehicle to die at idle.

    I have seen on Dodge trucks (and dodge trucks only) where a bad battery can cause it not to idle but still provides power to crank and start and vehicle will keep running when on gas but usually die at idle no matter what gear. Check your idle air control motor and passageways first

    A car engine question?

    okay, let me start off by saying that about all i know about fixing cars is how to change the anti-freeze, the spark plugs, those wire going from the distributor cap to the spark plugs, the battery, and i could probably change the oil if i had a lift or something to get my car high enough off the ground and the tools to do it. i drive a 2000 honda accord, and i'm interested in maybe having work done to increase the compression ratio of my engine. for those of you who know, i was just wondering if, keeping my above skills in mind, i could maybe do that myself or if i should take my car to a shop and have the job done by someone with more experience.A car engine question?
    Raising the compression ratio is a bit more complicated than it sounds. It requires reducing the overall volume of the compression chamber.

    The two easiest ways to do it are ...

    A: new pistons with a slight dome

    B: machining the heads to reduce the chamber size from say 53cc to 46cc.

    Keep in mind you have what we call an interference engine. So changing piston head profile or chamber deck height can cause alot of issues. I say your best bet would be to add an aftermartket turbo charger or supercharger.

    Now as for the skill set you have, you may be alot better off having the work done for you. What you are wanting is no easy job and it will require %26quot;tuning up%26quot; the computer as well.A car engine question?
    why raise the compression ratio? just get a turbo charger fittedA car engine question?
    compression ratio is set by piston and bore size, what type of cam fitted, if you want to get more, not only will a professional need to do, but it will not be cheap, dont know if it would affect your insurance as well as woul no longer be stock model. if you want more power get a different car, tuned engines requie regular maintaince to run niceA car engine question?
    with the skills that you progress it would be wise to take it to the shop.A car engine question?
    In order to get better compression ratio you would have to take the engine out of the car, take it apart and have a machine shop bore out the cylinder walls. Then you would have to order new engine parts to raplace them with. if you have a good running car you would want to sell it and get something that wouldnt be as expensive to screw up.

    You could do it but you would have to enjoy working on cars, study up ALOT, and know when your gettin advice from someone who knows what there talking about, and when your getting advice from a self-seeking naziA car engine question?
    mix a little rubbing alcohol in with the gas, it should increase the ratio, just be careful about how much you put in, it can hurt your engines performance

    How do you adjust the valves and rockers in a '95 Mitsubishi Mirage 1.5 lire?

    First off, I'm not a mechanic. Know just enough to be dangerous and don't mind admitting it. 4 cylinder in my daughters car was dead (pull plug wire and makes no difference in the rpms). Decided I was going to take off the valve cover and check the valves and rockers. I thought they had alot of play in them, more than the others. While I was getting the tools out, a friend bumped the ignition and changed location of the valves. I adjusted it like whenIi checked the first time. Car would not start. Adjusted back to where I tyhought they had been. Got it to start again, but either dies or almost dies when you put it in gear. What is the spacing on the rockers when the cylinder is open? Any ideas why the cylinder could be dead? New plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Tried turning distributor also. No difference. But need to get it back to where it can be driven at least. Any info on the valves would be appreciated. Thanks.How do you adjust the valves and rockers in a %26039;95 Mitsubishi Mirage 1.5 lire?
    Intake 0.008 in

    Exhaust 0.010 in

    This is with the piston in the firing position, rockers off the cam lobe.

    It is highly unlikely that the lash adjustment has anything to do with the cylinder not firing (dead cylinder). It is possible that having no lash would cause it, but that is not apt to occurr on it's own. It is possible that you now have the valves set %26quot;too tight%26quot;.

    I would suspect the real problem to be a burnt exhaust valve assuming of course there was spark at the wire, and the plug is good. Swap plugs, and wires with 3 cylinder. If miss is still on 4, and there is valve lash, do a compression test. I bet it will be low.How do you adjust the valves and rockers in a %26039;95 Mitsubishi Mirage 1.5 lire?
    I see you also turned the distributor. Now you also need a timing lite to set the timing. You can't jjust guess at where it was .Did you check to see if spark plug was actually firing ?? You must turn the engine until the piston is at top dead center. This is when the valve you are working on is in the closed position. Then you must turn the engine until the other valve closes so you can adjust it. I would stop there as you don't have a valve problem. If the spark plug doesn't fire the engine won't start. If the timing is off from turning tge distributor the engine may not start and may die when it idles. You need go to auto store and get CHILTONS book so you can fix what you screwed up. and thats just the way it is !!

    Two mechanics and no luck?

    First of all it is a 1995 camry with 79000 miles on it. It has always run fine until one day it just started to feel like the engine was missing around 45-50 mph and when you idle or reverse. So, we took it to a mechanic who said it was tune up work. The spark plugs, spark plug wires, rotor, distributor cap, fuel filter, air filter were all changed. We also ran fuel injector cleaner through the gas and replaced a broken tortion control mount. The problem persisted so we ended up having to take it to another mechanic who said I had a broken engine mount. So, he replaced that and balanced my tires. The problem still persisted, although it wasn't as bad it's still frustrating to spend this much money and have the same problem. So the question is what could be wrong with it and how can it be fixed? If so, how much would it cost? Thanks!Two mechanics and no luck?
    look at the MAF there is a small wire that gets gunk build up and clean that little wire and viola!

    look at the air tube and its usually 2 phillips screws near the air filter and a plug in of course. remove the screws and carefully pull the MAF and clean with light spray of electrical parts cleaner of MAF cleaner they have it at walmart in the auto section. DO NOT TOUCH THE WIRE! its very fine and easily damagedTwo mechanics and no luck?
    it's probably nothing to do with the ignition system, try looking to see if you have any malfunctioning sensors, especially in the transmission, a broken speed sensor will cause the engine to buck or misfire at certian speeds. Since your car is OBD I equipped it may be harder to find some one to scan it.Two mechanics and no luck?
    Ignition coil could have a short in the secondary. When you need extra spark the energy isn't there.

    Toyota uses speed / density to calculate air flow. You don't have a MAF.Two mechanics and no luck?
    Careful not to lock yourself in your car too. That would be a double wammie.Two mechanics and no luck?
    could be an air idle sensor,those mechanics ripped you off you didnt need a tune up.rotor??? you mean rotor as brakes? omg......good luck anyway.Two mechanics and no luck?
    I'm going to break a rule I've lived by all my life and recommend you take it to the dealer. They're probably better equipped to find the problem.

    How do i tell if my engine is backfiring or misfiring ?

    i recently changed my spark plugs,rotor,wires, and distributor cap. once i finished installing every ting,i started the car and when i step on the accelerator, the car jerks, then returns back to normal operation. when i look under thee hood and have some one step on the gas, when the car misfires or backfires, there is white/gray smoke that comes out of the driver side of the carburetor area ! the car does this every time i step on the gas, it isn't continuous, its more of on and off when i press the gas pedal.

    what is my problem and how do i fix it ?How do i tell if my engine is backfiring or misfiring ?
    just a real simple 5 minute diagnosis for back firing is double check your high tension lines. are they going from the correct tower to the correct plug. also insure that they are firmly seated on the tower and the plug. something commonly overlooked is did you make sure you placed the wires back in their looms so as to not let them arc against something metal. electricity will always take the shortest path to ground. if one of these wires can discharge its spark by arcing, easier than firing the plug, it will. this will sound like a taser going off. %26quot;zap zap zap zap%26quot;.

    WARNING: do your checking with the car off. this will save you from getting the beeejeeebers shocked outta you! and the embarrassment of your friend laughing at you while you dance around the yard glowing!

    if you are absolutely sure you have the correct wires on the correct towers and plugs, then you have a problem other than this one.How do i tell if my engine is backfiring or misfiring ?
    If the change came after your work, go back and check all your work. Unless you do the plug wires one at a time, there's a chance some could have been switched. Make sure the engine is timed right: It sounds like yours is firing while an intake valve isn't fully closed..

    I once replaced the distributor cap on a '72 Dodge Colt. It wouldn't start afer that. I checked the timing and it was 40 deg off. I compared the old cap with the new one and discovered they were different- the new one had the connectors that far off.. Repositioning the distributor corrected the problem.How do i tell if my engine is backfiring or misfiring ?
    It could be that, you could also have a pin sized hole in the head gasket, i'd get that **** into a garage and look at the gasket and engine block for holes.How do i tell if my engine is backfiring or misfiring ?
    You probably mixed up the firing order putting it back together. You may also want to time it.How do i tell if my engine is backfiring or misfiring ?
    If it was ok before, then you have two plug wires crossed up. A v8 will hide this at idle, but it will run like crap as soon as you try to put load on the engine. Gm V8 firing order is 18436572. Look on the intake just in front of the carb and it will be shown in raised letters cast into the intake. If you didn't pull the distributor out of the engine, then the 1 plug wire should be the left tower on the dist cap while facing it from the front of the car.The distributor turns right hand (clock wise). The cylinders are odds on the drivers side,1357, and even on the pass side 2468, from the front. Retrace your plug wires. I guarantee you got 5+7 crossed up. Easy mistake even pros make now and then. The cylinder numbers are cast into the intake also, right near where the intake meets the heads.Some of the older gms had the plug wire numbers embossed into the plastic retainer ring that hold the plug wire down on the dist cap.(the ring you threw out,because the after market wire didn't fit it)How do i tell if my engine is backfiring or misfiring ?
    timing is off and the engine is backfiring through the intake valves. did you loosen or mess with the distributer? if not then recheck that you dont have either some switched spark plug wires or they were installed one hole off in rotation (i doubt this one) when the timing is set to far out the spark plugs fire before the intake valve has clsed causing the back fire you described exhaust bangs are due to the exhast valve open during the spark. if the wires are all correct in the holes and on the plugs than you must bring the motor up to top dead center on the crank shaft pully (tdc) or zero degreas advance or retatd on the crank, then lift the distributor cap and see if the pointer is aimed at 1 spark plug contact in the distributor cap. at his point it should be if its pointed directly accross then you must turn the motor 1 turn to the next time the tdc mark is lined up. now the pointer should be close. turn the distributer base to line up the cap and the pointer to 1 plug. this should stop the backfires now you simply need to gently turn the distributer till the pointer matches the line on the timing marks your engine calls for usually 6 to 8 degrees advance or so.

    Toyota 18-RC misfire problem.?

    i recently changed carburetors from an 18rc engine that was going well onto my 18rc in my celica. i changed carburetors because my carburetor seemed to be flooding the engine, and eventualy i couldn't even start the engine.

    after i changed carburetors over the engine started first go, and ran exellently. but the next day the engine was running rough. me and my dad put the timing light on it but the number one cylinder was misfiring. i changed the spark plug, spark leads and distributor cap. i checked the exaust for that cylinder for leaks but there wasn't any. i took it to a mechanic and he did a test to see if the valve was burnt out, but it wasn't that. then he said it was the cam and that it had a worn down lobe.

    the question is how fast would a cam wear out so that a lobe was causing a misfire, because as i said before the engine was running good before my original carburetor deteriorated, and started misfiring after i changed carburetors. could the cam be causing this?Toyota 18-RC misfire problem.?
    cams have a hardened surface on them if the surface is damaged it will wear quickly, but not over night. have you checked that nothing fell into the engine when you changed the carb? you can take the valve cover off and turn the engine over by hand and see if all the valves open about the same amount or any of the came lobes look different than the others.. good luckToyota 18-RC misfire problem.?
    contact dealership

    When changing my ignition control module, how do I get the rotor out of the way. 1996 chevy cheyenne. thanks?

    The rotor is in the way. I was told if I bump the key over, it could possibly rotate the rotor enough, so that the lip moves to the other side and the I can remove the ICM. DOes this sound right. and when I do this does the distributor cap need to be on or off?When changing my ignition control module, how do I get the rotor out of the way. 1996 chevy cheyenne. thanks?

    That is NOT the ICM in the distributor, (this is not 1975)

    The sensor in the distributor is the CMP (camshaft position sensor)


    The ICM is located on the right side of the intake right in front of the ignition coil...When changing my ignition control module, how do I get the rotor out of the way. 1996 chevy cheyenne. thanks?
    Take the distributor cap off, then pull off the rotor and you can get to the ignition control module. Good time to install a new rotor, cap, and wires. Make sure you put a good coating of dielectric grease under the ignition control module before you install it.

    '99 Jeep Cherokee is getting ALMOST HALF of its previous fuel mileage.?

    I have been noticing that my jeep is having a drastic decline in fuel mileage. I was getting around 330-350 miles per tank. The last couple tanks I got 210!! I replaced my spark plugs, distributor cap, and spark plug wires. No discernible change. I have also noticed a loss in power and acceleration. Any ideas about what is going on or how to fix it?%26039;99 Jeep Cherokee is getting ALMOST HALF of its previous fuel mileage.?
    This happened to me last month. I dont know if this could be your problem but....

    The last time i got my oil changed the oil they used was defective or something and the it turned into a sludge and went through the engine.

    I had to put my car in the shop for 2 weeks.

    bring it to the dealership%26039;99 Jeep Cherokee is getting ALMOST HALF of its previous fuel mileage.?
    i hate to sound dumb and say something so obvious but... check the air filter...%26039;99 Jeep Cherokee is getting ALMOST HALF of its previous fuel mileage.?
    Fuel filter, fuel injector, air filter, tire pressure. Start there. Sometimes the computer needs to be reset. Take the battery cables off and leave them off for at least 30 minutes. Sometimes you need a new computer. Hope some of that works!%26039;99 Jeep Cherokee is getting ALMOST HALF of its previous fuel mileage.?
    did you replace the fuel filter? If not try that and add a good injector cleaner to a full tank of fuel.%26039;99 Jeep Cherokee is getting ALMOST HALF of its previous fuel mileage.?
    1. Change air filter

    2. and gas filter.

    Those are the 2 cheapest things that might help.

    Either could cause the loss of power and acceleration--but the gas filter is the most likely cause of the 2 listed.%26039;99 Jeep Cherokee is getting ALMOST HALF of its previous fuel mileage.?
    sounds like you might have a fuel system problem, try going under and replacing the pump and the lines

    you might also be losing power due to a failing ignition box,

    you're best off taking it down to a trusted auto shop and having them run a diagnostic test

    Car dies randomly at red lights?

    I have a 67 impala and just got a tune up (changed air filter and spark plugs myself) and got a well respected mechanic to change the starter, change the spark plug wires and distributor caps and also gave it a tune up (fixed the timing and adjusted the carburetor). Now when I drive it, it will sometimes die on me at red lights waiting for it to turn green and when I start it back up it will have a %26quot;grrr%26quot; sound when I turn the key (only sometimes).

    What can this be and how can I fix this?Car dies randomly at red lights?
    Have you check your fuel system. Your fuel pump may not working fine or the fuel filter is clogging with dirt already. You might have also faulty fuel pump relay. If the relay are not working fine, the fuel pump will not work fine also causing poor distribution of fuel to the carburator. Have this check by your respected mechanic. He might neglect this part. Hope this helps!Car dies randomly at red lights?
    Probably just need to set the idle up a bit, or adjust the idle mixture. If you are running air conditioning, that specific idle speed, which is higher than when the air is off to make up for the drag created by the compressor, may need to be increased. Modern cars have sensors on the engine and maintain idle with electronics and small stepper motors. Your 67 has only mechanical devices to keep the idle where it needs to be.
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  • My car is giving me a headache any advice would help.?

    This is my original question.....

    I have a '92 Nissan Sentra 1.6L Manual Transmission. It has started to Idle really rough and drive rough as well while driving until it gets up to speed. I have put new spark plugs and wires, has a fresh oil change and everything. A friend of mine taught me how to check the spark plugs and listen for the change in pitch all but 1 changes and that is after the new wires and plugs. Checked to make sure everything was done right but still doing the same thing. Any ideas of what else?

    So far I have a new distributor cap on it now, new rotor. No change. Still nothing in the one cylinder. Somebody also mentioned to check the compression in the cylinder. Now is that only something a mechanic can check with proper tools or is it easy to do.My car is giving me a headache any advice would help.?
    Checking compression is easy, and your local parts place has the tool you need to do it. They aren't that expensive. It goes in place of the spark plug; you crank the engine a few times and see where the gauge tops out. It should be within about 10% of all the others; if it isn't you may need valves or rings.

    But before you blow some money on that, try this: take out that one spark plug, shoot a teaspoon or so of oil into that cylinder, and put the plug back in. Fire it up. Did that fix it? If so, it's rings. And no, that %26quot;fix%26quot; won't last.My car is giving me a headache any advice would help.?
    You can purchase the tool to check the compression in the cylinder.... it goes in place of the pasrk plug and can tell you whether t is good or not. You can find it at any auto parts storeMy car is giving me a headache any advice would help.?
    this same thing happened to me on my truck im pretty sure that a couple of your injectrues are going bad in itMy car is giving me a headache any advice would help.?
    assuming you checked for spark at that plug, than check that your getting fuel to that cylinder.

    When you do the compression check you must pull all plugs out and disable the ignition and fuel injection. Also make sure you have battery fully charged.My car is giving me a headache any advice would help.?
    well when you changed the plugs were they all a nice light brown color or were they black with abuild up did you have any that were white did any have a build up across from the tip to the electrode? i ask because this would be what you check to help determine problems if any with your engine also did you change the air filter compression test=compression tester =autozone, three squirts oil crank over about 4 times write down repeat for all cylinders all readings should be within 75%of each other next get long screwdriver put handle against ear other end against injector listen to see if all working good luckMy car is giving me a headache any advice would help.?
    mostly could use a tuneup through a Nissan dealership

    86 nissan stanza, what on earth is wrong?

    I've had this stanza for 2 years now. sometimes it starts, other times it won't. When it does start the rpms rise and drop, rise and drop, and when you push on the gas pedal it it starts to sputter and sometimes stalls. When you put it in park or neutral it acts more steady but then when you put it in drive, the rpm's drop and it acts like it wants to die.

    I took it to a mechanic and he changed the spark plugs (all 8) and the distributor cap and rotor. it was better for a day or two but then it went down hill fast. The mechanic told me it was running rich in fuel. Does this seem right? another thing was interesting was when he would move the spark plug wires, sometimes the car would start to sputter. Does this seem like an electrical problem? Even when the spark plug wires aren't being moved the car acts up. Sometimes when starting the car it really smells like gas. What could be wrong with it and how much $?86 nissan stanza, what on earth is wrong?
    it sounds like it may be running a little rich on gas,,but i think you need to find another mechanic and let him check it out also,,two opinions are better than one,,i can only guess ,bit id say it has a bad sensor on it,,but a good mechanic should be able to find it for you,,good luck,i hope this help,s.,,have a good x-,mas.86 nissan stanza, what on earth is wrong?
    change the injectors86 nissan stanza, what on earth is wrong?
    since its an older car, expect probelms to arrise

    your solution lies with finding a good mechanic! do lots of research and hope you can find someone who is an expert on those cars

    it sounds like a complex problem, not one that can have a good answer here. since its an older car, lots of parts need to be checked in order to come up with a resolution86 nissan stanza, what on earth is wrong?
    have air idle motor checked and try a bottle of LUCAS fuel treatment86 nissan stanza, what on earth is wrong?
    did he change the spark plug wires? is it worse when it`s damp.Try looking at the wires in the night time with the engine running I bet you will see spark jumping. the spark energy will take the path of least resistance86 nissan stanza, what on earth is wrong?
    check the idle air control sensor,also it could be the throttle position sensor.try cleaning out the throttle body,it could be really dirty and cant breathe.86 nissan stanza, what on earth is wrong?
    its a nissan stanza that's what's wrong with it

    I have gas in my oil and need help are my rings and bearings still good?

    My question isnt how it got there. It went through the rings, the gas was poured in the carb to prime the fuel pump. my fuel pump is good, my carb is good. Also It flooded it because i have a highrise intake and big carb also have a cam etc, and used the old spark plugs to attempt to test the engine. To much gas, not enough spark, flooded it. The thing is, is that i never managed to start it although i turned it over a good bit, i was wanting to know how likely it is that my bearings and or rings are messed up? thats the question.... Im praying that new spark plugs and an oil/filter change fixes the problem, im also planning to buy a high performance distributor/coil/cap. Please .let me know what you think. Thanks alot. K.C.I have gas in my oil and need help are my rings and bearings still good?
    diablo you need to do a compression test to see if the rings are all good. a tester should run around 25 dollars or so more for better quality type. then you have the motor cranked 5 vevelutions each cylinder , writing the numbers you get. the variation should be less than 15 lbs or so any that read drasticly different should be rechecked and then noted. much lower would be blown rings. ps you dont prime a fuel pump pouring fuel into an engine thats just priming the cylinders. its free and its meI have gas in my oil and need help are my rings and bearings still good?
    Just cleaned everything Drain and run a air hose in the oil plug%26gt; with oil fill off it will dry out the gas%26gt; Fill and run%26gt;I have gas in my oil and need help are my rings and bearings still good?
    Don't go completely off my source because im just a garage mechanic with no schooling, but i wouldn't think the rings and bearings would go bad, the only thing i know of that causes that is substances such as metal shavings from old parts, ect. getting in between the bearings and scraping them up.I have gas in my oil and need help are my rings and bearings still good?
    I would replace the rings to be safe, i doubt it hurt them but id rather be safe than sorry.I have gas in my oil and need help are my rings and bearings still good?
    probably washed down the rings not a big problem you will have to crank it until compression comes up without feeding it anymore fuel crank it a few times to get oil back into the rings make sure you are up on number one on the compression stroke if you have spark it should fire and run bad for a while then get better set timing

    Should I replace the pick up coil?

    What should I check if my truck is jumping like it isn't getting fuel? I have changed the fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel pump relay, spark plugs, spark wires, and the distributor cap. Some one told me that it may be the pick up coil or ignition coil. What would the symptoms of this be and how can I tell if it needs to be replaced?Should I replace the pick up coil?
    could be plugged catalytic converter. maybe intake leak. probably should clean the carbuerator or throttle body with carb/choke cleaner.Should I replace the pick up coil?
    take the coil or pickup coil to a parts house and they can check it for youShould I replace the pick up coil?
    year of auto really helps

    my email is openShould I replace the pick up coil?
    It depends what vehicle,and how old it is,etc.Yes,your pick up coil could do this,as could the ignition coil.So could a bad gas cap and fuel pressure regulator.Should I replace the pick up coil?
    have you checked the timing?Should I replace the pick up coil?
    what make and model and engine? it could be a flat cam? does it do it under a load? idle?

    1997 Chevy G1500 van with 5.7 L motor?

    How do you access the motor well enough to change out the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap %26amp; rotor.1997 Chevy G1500 van with 5.7 L motor?
    there is a %26quot;dog house%26quot; you have to remove. It is the hump below the lower center of the dash. lots of times they have drink holder attached to them. there are two latches across the bottom(might be slightly under the floor board carpet) and one latch one the right an left side. Undo the latches and snake it out from between the seats. Sometimes you have to move the center console back(also attached with latches)1997 Chevy G1500 van with 5.7 L motor?
    What you can't get from inside the van either underneath or jack up the van and get it between the tire and the fender. THere is a leather like flap. That you lift up and then you can view.1997 Chevy G1500 van with 5.7 L motor?
    what tootsie said or remove the dash1997 Chevy G1500 van with 5.7 L motor?
    take the body off the frame.

    No not really, remove the engine cover inside the van for cap and rotor and wire access and the rear plugs, jack up the van and reach thru the wheel well for the front 4
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  • How much does it cost for..............?

    How much does it cost to get a oil change and oil filter change and one tune up consisting of changing whatever is aplicable in you car like spark plugs spark plug wires distributor cap distibutor rotor air filter and fuel filterHow much does it cost for..............?
    Well that depends if you do it or if you pay someone else.

    If you do it, it'll cost about 100 dollars for the oil, oil filter, air filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires. %26quot; may be more because spark plug wires can get expensive%26quot;

    If you pay someone else to do it... its going to be over 300 dollars for labor and parts. Mechanics rate is now 90/hr. so good luck using them!...How much does it cost for..............?
    You have to tell us what kind of car you have before we can answer.How much does it cost for..............?
    It depends in what car you have, but if you what a full tune up it will cost you around 120-150 also it depends in what oil you what and spark plugs.How much does it cost for..............?
    id say between 100-125

    My sons 1988 Ford F150 Truck will not start. Can not figure out what else it could be.?

    Last summer it blew some freeze plugs so he got them changed. Then son and his friend were gonna start the truck and the Starter hung hung up and is shorted out the solenoid. So instead of his friend waiting until he got the solenoid to replace it He took it off and said OH THIS Is WHAT You need. So his friend was drunk and could not remember how to rewire the solenoid. And he wired it backwards and messed up the Alternator. So then we had to replace that. We changed the rotor bug, the distributor cap, and plug wires, the coil and coil wire And still nothing it will crank but will not start. We checked it is getting spark.My sons 1988 Ford F150 Truck will not start. Can not figure out what else it could be.?
    Spark is good, how about fuel? It could be the fuel pump, or the fuse to the fuel pump if it is electric. Some of those are mechanical and some are electric. Depends on the engine. Spray some either (starting fluid) into the carb or intake depending on the engine, if it starts it is likely not getting fuel. Is it getting enough air? to test that just take out the air filter and try to start it. If it starts replace the air filter.My sons 1988 Ford F150 Truck will not start. Can not figure out what else it could be.?
    sounds like it could be a fuel injection problem. has the fuel filter been changed? also you can check your fuel pump by unplugging the fuel line near tha gas tank then try cranking your engine. if alot of fuel sprays out the pump is good but if little or no fuel is spraying out its definitely the pump. also check your injectors they may be bad or dirtyMy sons 1988 Ford F150 Truck will not start. Can not figure out what else it could be.?
    First what is a rotor bug.??? Second when replacing the ign. wires are they in the right firing order.? Third you may be getting spark BUT is that spark hot enough.? I'd replace the electronic spark control..even if just for GP now... and finally before anything make sure your getting gas .. GLMy sons 1988 Ford F150 Truck will not start. Can not figure out what else it could be.?
    you change spark plug wire check make sure the fire order is correct.My sons 1988 Ford F150 Truck will not start. Can not figure out what else it could be.?
    Have you checked fuel pressure? Fuel pump? Fuel pump relay?

    94 Honda Accord rotor bolt?

    How the hell do you get the bolt off the rotor? It's turned at a bad angle and I can't even see if it's a phillips head, or what. Also, the valve cover gasket is pretty much shot and there's oil in all the spark plug wells, the car should still run, right? It's worked fine up until now, and I know it needs to be fixed, but the car stopped running to day and I changed the plugs, wires, and distributor cap, but I can't get the damn rotor off. I tried restarting the car with the new stuff and the old rotor, but it still won't fire. Hopefully when I get back under the distributor cap the rotor bolt will be a more manageable place. Any other ideas?94 Honda Accord rotor bolt?
    just get your engine to TDC. (rotor pointing to 1) you can get the screw off from there.

    it should be a phillips head.

    may also be your ignitor going out.

    94 Honda Accord rotor bolt?
    mark the position of the distributor, and remove the 3 12mm bolts. now you can free spin the rotor to were you can get to it. Also you gotta remove the distributor because that o-ring leaks real bad, you usually replace it when you replace the valve cover. Another reason the car is not starting is the main relay. After you do all the engine work, and the car still will not start. Get a main relay.94 Honda Accord rotor bolt?
    distributor off tap the engine until the bolt faces the opening and take out. if not break the rotor and make opening with little vise grip take out. u don't have to pull distributor. if no spark try coil most of the time it's a bad coil.

    1990 honda crx problem help.?

    Ok so my crx (1990 honda crx) was throwing a code 16 and won檛 start.

    Here is what I have done so far.

    1. Replaced spark plugs, wires, distributor rotors, and cap.

    2. Replaced Battery.

    3. Replaced fuel filter.

    4. Replaced fuel pump.

    How problem started.

    Problem started about 4 months ago. The car would run find while driving but once I turn the car off, it would not start. I would try a few times and then battery would die, and I would have to jump start the car. Every time I jumped it, it would start right up.

    It got to the point where the car would start, and I would drive it, and when I turned it off, it wouldn檛 start for a few days. After about a day or 2, it would start right up again and repeat same process over and over.

    Fixing process.

    I finally decided to tune it up a bit. I did a full oil change, replaced the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotors, and fuel filter. After that, it started right up again and ran find for about a day. On the second day, the problem came back again. I noticed that when starting the car, the check engine light would come on. Now when you first turn the key to the on position, the check engine light and all the other lights come on, I know this. But it goes off. What I am saying is during the starting process the check engine light comes on again. So I looked at the ecu and it was throwing code 16, which has to do with the fuel injectors. I was told to test the injectors?resistance with an ohm meter. The primary injector should be showing between 0.6 and 1.6 ohms, and the auxiliary should be showing between 0.6 and 10 ohms. I tested them, and both seem to be good.

    I finally decided to get a fuel system cleaner. I put cleaner in and got the car to start. I ran the car all day without turning it off just in case. I even took it on the free way and ran it at high speed. After that, I turned the car off, and let it sit for about 18 hours. It was about 9pm at night and it was cold so I decided it was a good time to test the car. I tried to start it and it started right up with no hesitation. I then turned it off and tried it again just to make sure, and it started right up. So I drove it for about 5 minutes and then parked it again and turned it off and tried to start it again and it started right up again with no problem. So I figured the problem was fixed. The next morning, I went to do one last test. I tried to start it and it started find again, so I took it for another drive. While I was driving the car sounded like it ran out of gas and just died. I tried over and over to start it but best I could get it to do is start and then die 2 seconds later.

    I towed it home and tried to diagnose the problem again. First I checked the fuel filter and it had some dirt in it so I washed it out with gas. I put it back on and tried to start the car and still no luck. I took it off again and noticed there was no fuel going to the car anymore. I noticed I couldn檛 hear the fuel pump either so I replaced the fuel pump. I turned the keys to the on position and waited a few minutes then checked the fuel line again to see if it had fuel in it and it had plenty lol. But I still can檛 get car to start. So now I am back here again looking for help to see what could be the problem. I am still getting code 16 on my euc. What i was thinking is to replace the injectors one at a time to see which one was causing the problem. If anyone has any other ideas, Please let me know i am stuck lol.1990 honda crx problem help.?
    Ignition module is more than likely faulty. Common problem on 90s hondas. Located under the cap inside the distributor.

    How come my car is not getting any spark? Any help please?

    so lets start with what exactly happened.

    So my mom was driving her 2000 honda civic and all of a sudden based on her account %26quot;i was just driving normally. then the engine just got cut off and when i tried turning it on it just cranks and cranks but never turns on.%26quot;

    So I went to the car, and i turned the key, and all I hear is the cranking noise like its trying to start, but it never does.

    I did a timing test and its showing that I have no sparks at all in all of the 4 cylinders.

    I changed the cap, rotor, spark plugs, and spark plug wires. I didnt buy the dizzy because it was the most expensive unit, and now Kragen is closed. Do you guys think it might be the distributor? if not, then what else? thanks.

    How come my car is not getting any spark? Any help please?
    do you have 12 v to the coil, with the ignition on?How come my car is not getting any spark? Any help please?
    ignition coil replaceHow come my car is not getting any spark? Any help please?
    well dude go check all of ta fuses tat transfer electricity to ta car it is usually located on ta bottom of ta steering near ta corner maybe one of then is burned off and needs replacements so check all of them
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  • What car services should I get for my car?

    My jeep has 90,000 miles and I haven't really thought about maintenance til now. I get regular oil changes but that's about it. I was thinking about the following: tire rotation and balance, tune up, battery check, brakes? I don't recall that we have ever gotten any of those done and we got it used at 60,000 miles. Also, how do you know when you buy the tire rotation if they do a balance and alignment as well - are those both good to get / needed? What's important during a tune up? I have a coupon and it says it does: install new spark plug ; visually inspect ignition wires, distributor cap/rotor, filters and more ; set timing/adjust idle (if applicable) but I'm scared that if something is wrong they wouldn't fix it cuz they would charge extra since it just says visibly inspectWhat car services should I get for my car?
    Have them check the oil filter, PCV valve, spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter, and everything that should be replaced every so many miles. The fluids might need to be changed so make sure to get that checked too.What car services should I get for my car?
    A tire rotation does not include an alignment...You need to set up an alignment and get your tires rotated at that time...and yes this is something that is good to have done from time to time. For a tune up you might need new spark plugs and wires...and have your timing might need a new air filter...That's right...they get you in for a tune up...plugs, wires, etc....and then hopefully they will get additional business by having other things that you need to have done. I wouldn't take my car anywhere unless you know someone that has used them with success...Good luck. I would just take it to someone that I could trust and pay for an inspection and go from there.What car services should I get for my car?
    how could you forget the transmission oil change.i used to work at brake check before they found out i was giving discounts to pretty faces and family members and when they mean visually inspect thats what they do and tell you if they need to be replaced or not.balance and tire rotation you can tell if your tires are marked with white chalk and they have weights on the rim of the for alignment thats a diffrent step.

    I have a 88 accord and when i bought car had electrical tape holding on a piece off of distributor, fell off?

    i just got a 88 accord carberated 4 cyl. i noticed tape holding on a part to where distributor cap is. it has 2 hoses off end and when it fell off when i changed plugs still ran. well driving home must have come loose call now wont idle. it goes into 2-3' opening on side of dist. cap and has a little dipstick on end, what is it? should dip stick be side to side in hole, trying to put back on but am lost anyone know what it is, how to fix and cost?I have a 88 accord and when i bought car had electrical tape holding on a piece off of distributor, fell off?
    What your describing sounds like the vacuum control for timing advance-thats not a dip stick it's a broken lever. get it fixedI have a 88 accord and when i bought car had electrical tape holding on a piece off of distributor, fell off?
    I agree with Mike, either replace it yourself with a new one or go to a mechanic. I can guarantee your car is gonna stop running if you don't. Look at it realistically, that was probably an original part, the car got 20+ years out of it, pretty cheap it you average it out.

    Where can I find some DIY info on how to tune up a 2005 Chevrolet Cobalt ?

    Where can I find some DIY info on how to tune up a 2005 Chevrolet Cobalt ? Sparkplugs, Rotor, Distributor Cap, Sparkplug Wires and Oil change.Where can I find some DIY info on how to tune up a 2005 Chevrolet Cobalt ?
    All modern cars self tune as you drive them. So you just replace parts that wear out. You got most the items of the tune up. Here's some more:

    (1) spark plugs

    (2) spark plug wires

    (3) distributors, coil, rotors (if you have them).

    (4) new air filter

    (5) PCV

    (6) correct tire pressure

    (7) clear the trunk of useless heavy items

    (8) spray clean MAF sensor.


    The only thing you have to be careful is the spark plug - torque spec. Make sure it is NOT too tight NOR too loose.

    Good Luck....Where can I find some DIY info on how to tune up a 2005 Chevrolet Cobalt ?
    Go to an auto parts store and get a Hanes manual. They have them for any modle of vehicle you can think of. Ive got one for every vehicle i own. They cover everything from tuning a vehicle up to rebuilding the engine. they are very handy with pictures and instructions on everything engine,electrical, body, drivetrain, maintence, etc. Around here they cost about $20. Any parts store will have them like Advance Auto, Autozone. Good luck and enjoy your Chevy.Where can I find some DIY info on how to tune up a 2005 Chevrolet Cobalt ?
    Your vehicle maintenance schedule can be found in your car's owner manual. As memory serves, there is no cap and rotor to mess with, as they went with coilpacks. Cobolts were advertised to have 100,000 mile maintenance intervals, so more than likely, you will not need to change the plugs, wires, or coilpacks at this time. Oil changes, well, best basic rule on that is 3 months, 3000 miles between changes. Good luck.

    How possible is it that water could have caused a spark to jump and short out my ECU?

    89 S10 4.3 220k. My truck ran fine before I decided to powerwash the engine. After I washed it It wouldn't start. When I did get it started, it was misfiring badly and would backfire out of the intake. The plugs and wires I changed at the last oil change. I tried replacing the distributor cap, rotor and the pickup coil. I also had the Ignition module tested and it tested good. I tested the coil with an ohmmeter and it was good as well. Could a spark have jumped into the wiring harness and zapped my computer?How possible is it that water could have caused a spark to jump and short out my ECU?
    No.. you forced water into the plug wires with the pressure washer and it's cross firing between two cylinders.... plug wires are designed to keep water out at atmospheric pressure, not at 3200psiHow possible is it that water could have caused a spark to jump and short out my ECU?
    No.How possible is it that water could have caused a spark to jump and short out my ECU?
    The ecu is not at fault. Don't power wash your engine. If you are lucky it will dry out after it runs for a while and warms up.How possible is it that water could have caused a spark to jump and short out my ECU?
    Not likely.......It's probably water somewhere in one of the connectors, you might want to carefully disconnect them one by one, and replace the dielectric grease

    in them, you can also try clean, compressed air. I personally have

    never heard this happening but I guess there's always a first if it is

    the ECU....But being it's such an expensive item to replace, I would

    try all other options first.

    Good Luck to you..How possible is it that water could have caused a spark to jump and short out my ECU?
    the difference between the coil secondary and any other system in that car is just too much. even if the spark could wander to the computer it would lack the power to do any damage. allot of us agree that your problem is simply just wet ignition system. dry it out and retry.

    My 1996 Honda Accord hesitating on accelerations? Vacuum leak vs transmission vs something else?

    1996 Honda Accord EX 2.2L SOHC VTEC, 138,000 miles

    My car has been hesitating when I press on the gas over the last few days. It gets up to right before the next gear and stays there for 4-5 seconds before it shifts. During these 4-5 seconds I will be almost flooring it but see no change in my RPMs. Its worse with inclines and hills but usually not as bad at high speeds.

    The oil is ok, oxygen sensors were changed 3 months ago, and today I just changed out the spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, PCV valve and hose, and air filter. The old plugs and cap/rotor looked good, but the old PCV valve didnt make a sound when I shook it. Overall, the tune up made it idle smoother but it still hesitates. I know I should have done the fuel filter but its way too hard to get to, and I heard its even an all day thing for pros on this year of Accord.

    The people at the auto store recommended I use Seafoam and fuel injector cleaner during the tune up, but I have NOT done it yet, since Im not sure what Im dealing with.

    Any way to narrow it down to see if its a vacuum leak or tranny problem or something else? And how much can it typically cost to diagnose and fix either? Im guessing the tranny will probably be way more than the car is actually worth but i dont know about vacuum systems at all. Thanks in advance.My 1996 Honda Accord hesitating on accelerations? Vacuum leak vs transmission vs something else?
    sounds like classic pluged catalytic converter. But other possibilities are ignition timing, timming belt maybe jumped, or your carb if it is carbureted, needs to be rebuilt. If it is the Catalytic converter the way to tell is at night look under the car while it is running and well up to normal operating temp if the Cat is plugged it will be golden red. the rest you will need to have diagnose at you local repair shop.

    I dont buy that about the fuel filter, get a second opinion but really you woulnt just lose power to a plugged filter you would have dificulty starting and stalling. I hate to say it but you also might only be running on 3 cylinders but that is worst case scenario. you need it diagnosed by someone who knows what they are doing.My 1996 Honda Accord hesitating on accelerations? Vacuum leak vs transmission vs something else?
    add the stuff it is cheap enough if vacuum is cosing it, it will be your modulator valve,will be on the trans and have a rubber hose going to it if after you try seafoam and it still acts that way I would say Its a paper rubber kit,which means the trans needs to be rebuilt
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  • 94 Nissan pickup, 4cyl, 4x4, loses all power at 35 rpms. Have changed the fuel filter, dist cap, rotor, spark

    After we have changed the above, now it will not even start!! It did start fine, and idled well. I bought it used, and it doesnt have an engine computer in it. How do i check the 4 sensors? What other ideas do you have?? A Nissan mechanic suggested changing a coil in the distributor,, we did, to the tune of $100+, then it wouldn't even start! The more we work on the worse it is getting. Help, please94 Nissan pickup, 4cyl, 4x4, loses all power at 35 rpms. Have changed the fuel filter, dist cap, rotor, spark
    If your check engine light is on you can get a diagnostic check and it'll tell you what sensor is bad. Have you checked your fuel pump?94 Nissan pickup, 4cyl, 4x4, loses all power at 35 rpms. Have changed the fuel filter, dist cap, rotor, spark
    check compression of engine .go from there. sounds like a timing problem.

    Can someone give me an idea what could be wrong with my car?

    I have a 1992 civic. D16z6. When i drive it, the car starts sputtering, and when it idles i'll give it gas it does the same thing. I took it somewhere to get fixed, and he said it was a bad fuel pressure regulator, so he fixed it with a used one. i drove it to florida from pennsylvania, drove it some more, then drove back. That's about 4000 miles, and now it's doing it again, so I bought a brand new fuel pressure regulator, and it's STILL doing it. I've changed the spark plug wires, (the plugs look fine) the fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, and distributor. I don't know what else it could be. The only thing i could think is i didn't change the cap and rotor, but idk....Any thoughts on how i can put this problem to an end?Can someone give me an idea what could be wrong with my car?
    TRY CHANGING THE FUEL FILTERCan someone give me an idea what could be wrong with my car?
    you forgot the fuel filter.Can someone give me an idea what could be wrong with my car?
    O2 sensorCan someone give me an idea what could be wrong with my car?
    Cap and rotor should have been changed with the distributor. Have you changed your fuel filter?

    1990 chevrolet caprice is the anyone tat can help get me back on the road?

    i had a friend change my spark plugs and wires some how he didn't remember wire the wires went on the new distributor cap is it anyway to find out or does anyone know we have the firing order but don't know were the go on the distributor please help.1990 chevrolet caprice is the anyone tat can help get me back on the road?
    firing order is 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2

    Driver side front to rear is 1 3 5 7

    Pass side front to rear is 2 4 6 8

    Rotor/firing order goes clockwise

    Remove 1 plug, put finger over hole, have buddy to bump the key so starter turns engine a tad. When you feel air blowing on your finger stop (up stroke should blow and down stroke should suck)

    Now using a 5/8%26quot; socket and a pull bar, put socket on center lower pulley/damper bolt and %26quot;tighten%26quot; the bolt that will turn engine over

    Turn like that till your line on damper matchs up with the 0 or TDC mark on tab.

    Now pull dizzy cap off.

    What ever post the tip of rotor button points to is your 1

    Put 1 plug back in, mark with marker or paint %26quot;1%26quot; on the dizzy cap in right place

    Put rest of the wires on in order of 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 clockwise around cap1990 chevrolet caprice is the anyone tat can help get me back on the road?
    rotate the engine until the 1 cylinder is at top dead center of the compression stroke (both valves closed and 0 degrees on the timing plate) locate the post the rotor is pointing at. That is where the 1 plug wire goes, continue with the firing order around the cap in the direction of the rotor rotation.1990 chevrolet caprice is the anyone tat can help get me back on the road?
    Bring your timing mark on the fly wheel to TDC

    Take out the number one plug and make sure the piston is at the top on the compression stroke. You can hold your thumb over the spark plug hole when aligning the timing mark to see if pressure is forces past your thumb to be sure you are on the compression stroke.

    Take off the distributor cap. The rotor will be pointing at the number one position on the cap. Follow the firing order to finish. You can figure out which direction the rotor turns by having some one tap the ignition with the cap off and watching which way the rotor turns.1990 chevrolet caprice is the anyone tat can help get me back on the road?
    The manifold will have the cylinders marked so you know which cylinder is which. The distributor cap should have number 1 embossed on the cap. Now look at the engine at the cylinder banks. One bank will be slightly more towards the front of the car. The front cylinder on that bank will be number 1. This is true of all V engines because of the way the pistons have to be arranged to fit opposite each other. All you have to do then is follow the firing order clockwise on the distributor cap.

    Rev limiter acting up?

    I have a 88 nissan I just bought to drive to school back and forth and parked my jeep. When I first drive it to school nothing happens, but when I get out of school thats when it happens. The car won't go over 2500 rpms. It does it through all the gears, and it won't go over 55. Its a consistant missing out, and at first I thought it had something to do with fuel flow. So I changed the fuel filter, distributor cap, and spark plugs and wires. It is a 1.6L 4 cylinder and its fuel injected, 5 speed. Any suggestions? and if it is the rev limiter, how do I go about fixing it?Rev limiter acting up?
    It is deff not your rev limiter. Im going to school for Mechanic right now. Have 1 year left anyways. Id say check the MAP sensor.

    Can my parents take away my car?

    i found the car. i bought the car. i fixed it up. i ordered new parts. took it to it to the dealer. i've changed the oil, belt, distributor cap, wire plugs, spark plugs.

    long story short. I've payed and done everything for that car. tabs, emissions, insurance everything. I've had my dads help here and there but I've done everything. clean it, wash it, cover it.

    so can my mom takes away my car keys as punishment then teach my sister how to drive in it? and says i should take the bus...

    im going a little crazy here...

    this car is kinda a classic

    1990 E30 bmw m3 us specs 100% stock from the battery to the OBCCan my parents take away my car?
    If everything is in your name including insurance. No they cannot. If they had this in mind when it came time to insure the vehicle then yes they could. However because everything is in your name you may have to threaten them to bring them to court and may have to call the police to report a theft. They have no right to it if everything is in your name. I speak from legal grounds I have seen taken as a police officer.

    If they choose to punish you. A vehicle that you have bought and insured and worked on is not for them to choose to take away since the state has already granted you the privilege to drive.

    If parents want to do this they have to insure the vehicle and have it under their name. If the title is in their name then you may have an issue.

    You can thumbs down me. This is the law.Can my parents take away my car?
    is it under your name and if it is then she has no rights to do that to youCan my parents take away my car?
    If you paid for it, it's your car and they can't take it away. However, you may find yourself living in it if you don't do what they say.Can my parents take away my car?
    nothing from the '90's is a classic

    how old are you? is the car in your name? (i only ask cuz just cuz you paid for it doesnt mean its in your name)

    if your under 18 yes she can take the keys as a punishment. if its not in your name...well even if it is, she could teach your sister to drive in it, but its kinda s h i t t y to do...Can my parents take away my car?
    if your under 18 yes.Can my parents take away my car?
    This is one of those rare moments when being a kid sucks.Can my parents take away my car?
    if you bought the car and it is in your name then no, she cant take it from you. if it is in their name, sadly you are pretty much out of luck.Can my parents take away my car?
    If you are 17 or younger then yes she can cuz she still has to support you (by law) but even if u are 18 or older as long as you are living in her house she can do that.cuase shes your mom....... ScaryCan my parents take away my car?
    it depends on if your only 16 and at home...who's name it's in...etc.Can my parents take away my car?
    what did you do to make her punish you in such an unfair way.

    it is very wrong of her to do this, i wouldn't stand for it for a second. My parents would never touch my vehicle without my consent, and if they tried, i'd say some unkind things to them

    you payed for it, and you own it. those are the rules, and that is whats legal. if they wished to go further with me after my unkind words i'd take them to court.

    :-]Can my parents take away my car?
    what did you do to deserve such punishment. depending on that i would say yes she has a right to take your keys (maybe) but she should not use it or teach your sister to drive. and the insurance will not cover it if she had an accident you would have to say she took the car without permission and what a lot of trouble for the family. and if you had been drinking and driving or some thing considered dangerous then a time without the car would be good for you that's why i said maybe.Can my parents take away my car?
    the first question is what did you do and the second question is does she pay insurance on the car and yes she can do thisCan my parents take away my car?
    If you are under 18, she has every right to take your keys as punishment.

    Using it to teach your sister to drive is wrong in my opinion, but not illegal if you are under 18.Can my parents take away my car?
    Honestly it doesn't really matter whether they CAN take away your keys or not. If they ha vent already they will if they feel its necessary. I went through the same thing with my parents. I bought the car and i pay for it and insurance and maintenance etc but even when i was 18 and 19 they still try threatening me with taking the car away. its kind of ridiculous i know but they are your parents so i guess they can do what they think is best no matter if you agree with them or not.Can my parents take away my car?
    Yes you're underage!!! Same as my ipod I paid for it but that doesn't mean my parents can't take it away a punishment (I know that isn't a very good example but it's the best I could come up with):-) But I agree it is pretty messed up that your mom is teaching your sister to drive in it but making you take the bus!!! But sinse the car IS in your name you can forbid your sister to drive it:-) Oh and can the car be in your names sinse you are only 17???Can my parents take away my car?
    Yes they can. You should pay them back for the years they paid your tab. Then you would have a case.Can my parents take away my car?
    If you live in the U.S. then it isn't your car, you purchased it illegally because it is against the law for minors to enter into contract. If the car is parked on your parents property they can surely take it away. As long as you are a minor and the car is at your mother's home SHE is owner because she owns the sets on. Now you understand WHY minors by law can't enter into contracts, they know nothing...obviously you don't.
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  • How do you tell if a engine has good compresion?

    i have a 1987 chevy caprice, at first i could burn rubber, and go really fast. then my rebuilt trans messed up, and ever since then i ha vent been able to burn rubber. i changed my wires,plugs,distributor cap and rotor. i have been getting backfire or misfire ever since i swap out those old parts for new ones. how do i tell if my engines compression is good ? but i didn't experience a improvement in power, can the trans keep me from burning rubber or getting the full power from the engine ?How do you tell if a engine has good compresion?
    Buy a compression gauge, remove one spark plug and insert the gauge, turn the car over and check the reading, compare with proper compression for the engine and get fixed where needed. If you need help, take it to Auto-zone and they will help you. Good luck!How do you tell if a engine has good compresion?
    If your getting back fire, check your firing order first . you have a wire or two swaped. then give it a try .How do you tell if a engine has good compresion?
    make sure you have the plug wires on correctly. as few as 2 wires on the wrong plugs can cause a back firing issue.

    to check your compression you need to buy a compression tester and pull the spark plugs to use itHow do you tell if a engine has good compresion?
    My chap says you have to do a compression test. Go to Halfords and buy a compression gauge and test each cylinder via the sparkplug hole. They should all be of similar readings within a few degrees. If there is a major difference in reading for each bore - urgent garage repair needed.How do you tell if a engine has good compresion?
    no make sure all the connections are absolutely correct you may have put the wrong plug on the wrong cylynder which would cause misfiringHow do you tell if a engine has good compresion?
    you do a compressiont test

    take it in if you dont know what you are doing

    if you plan on doing them yourself

    make sure its at TDC

    I have a 1988 ford escort lx and i am looking to get some work done on it?

    just about how much should i pay to do a tune up. Spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, plug wires, oil change, air filter, fuel filter,please help me out I have a 1988 ford escort lx and i am looking to get some work done on it?
    You should do most of it. It's very easy and kind of hard to screw it up.

    Air Filter: Remove the cover, lift old filter right up, lay the new filter down, Replace the cover. (By far the easiest)

    Oil change: Lift front of car with jack and use jack stands for the love of god. Slightly Loosen drain plug with a ratchet. (the screw at the bottom of the engine drain pan. Its by itself and hard to miss). Place a container to drain the oil into under the plug before completely removing the drain plug. The oil will run right out. Then unscrew the oil filter by hand. Use some of the new oil to coat the rubber part of the top of the new oil filter and screw it on by hand. When the oil is done draining screw the plug back in and fill the engine with new oil.

    (This is also very easy to do. And you wont have any of those horror stories about people who were screwed by the shop and drove off with no oil in their cars.)

    Plug Wires: (Extremely easy) Most people do them at the same time as the spark plugs but if you feel nervous about it you can do the wires first. Pull the distributor end of one wire. Then carefully follow the wire to its Plug and remove that end. Find the new Wire that matches the length of the old one and connect it to the plug and distributor. BE sure to route it the same way and only do one at a time to avoid confusion. Repeat for all wires.

    Spark Plugs (Medium): Make sure they are all gapped correctly and apply boot grease to the tops (non threaded ends) of each plug. You can ask someone at the parts store to help you with this. Pull the boot off a plug. Use your ratchet with an extension if necessary to remove the old plug. Insert the new plug and tighten with ratchet. Replace boot. Do this for every plug. Make sure you have a magnet on hand just in case you cant pull a plug out after unscrewing it.

    As for the distributor cap and rotor and the fuel filter, You might need the shop to do that for you. But in the end you would save a ton of money by doing the simple stuff yourself.I have a 1988 ford escort lx and i am looking to get some work done on it?
    Book time shouldn't be more than a hour and a half... Plus the cost of parts.

    Calculating this is basically, labor rate times a hour and a half plus the cost of parts... And what kind of parts. New or old car, I almost always suggest OEM. Motorcraft are easy to get at any Murrays, Advance Auto etc.

    Good luck.

    How much could i see my truck for?

    I want to get rid of my big truck and get a small car cause of gas

    I have a 94 Ford F-150 5-8 liter 4x4 extended cab step up with 188285 miles

    it has new brake pads front and back, new ball joints in front, new spark plugs, wires and distributor cap and rotor runs, and oil changed great and pretty good on gas for a big truckHow much could i see my truck for?
    you can see it for free, but only sell it for 2500 or lessHow much could i see my truck for?
    Go to (Kelly Blue Book), fill in all the stats on your truck, and it will tell you how much you can get out of it.How much could i see my truck for?
    look at or for a resale price, however it will probably be a little less since these types of vechiles are not in demand at the moment. .How much could i see my truck for?
    At this time trucks like yours are not in high demand. So what you think it is worth, divide that by 2 and hope you can sell it. I have a truck like this and I know what it is worth, can I get that much for it, NO! If I want to sell it than I'll get about half of what its worth.. that is if I could find a buyer. So you will need to decide if the lost you get is worth the gas you'll save.

    How important is to know the firing order in a vehicle when changing spark plugs?

    I don't have the repair manual for a Ford Taurus 1996 V6 3.0 litres,so i don't know the firing order,i am not replacing the distributor cap,only the the firing order very important when changing the plugs?

    Thanks in advance.How important is to know the firing order in a vehicle when changing spark plugs?
    If you take out one plug, replace it and put the wire back on, then do the next one, until they're all changed, one by one, you cannot mix them up. If you have two wires loose at the same time, there's a chance you might mix them up- only 50% chance. If you take them all off, then there's a great chance some will be on wrong unless you label them, and you would do well to know the firing order to doublecheck your work to make sure they're labeled right. The bottom line is, if you do them one at a time, you don't have to know the firing order.

    When you get ready to change the distributor cap, remember, one wire at a time. If you xerox the page from Chiltons Auto Repair showing the firing order diagram, that is good insurance for you, just in case.

    They used to put the firing order on the intake manifold of engines. I haven't looked for years, though.How important is to know the firing order in a vehicle when changing spark plugs?
    No it's not important as long as you do one plug at a time.How important is to know the firing order in a vehicle when changing spark plugs?
    ok bud it is your bible, no other way to say how important that is, ill post it later, are you sure its got a distributor?im gonna look in my book, just as soon as i finish dinner and banana split, and maybe a beer.How important is to know the firing order in a vehicle when changing spark plugs?
    One at a time, no need to know firing order.How important is to know the firing order in a vehicle when changing spark plugs?
    If you get them out of order then gas will build up in one piston when the plug doesn't fire and then it will backfire very badly, even shooting flames up your carburetor and damaging your engine. Do what everyone else said and change one plug at a time.How important is to know the firing order in a vehicle when changing spark plugs?
    it can be criticle if you dont go one by one. you will find the firing order for this engine is somewhere on the engine usually on the intake manifold though just incase. as I recall you have a coil pack on the top of the engine and I believe each coil pack matched up to the spark plud they fired example the front left pack was to the front left plug, middle to middle plug etc. ps be sure to put some antiseize of the threads of the spark plug you are installing as they tend to gall in the threded part of the cylinder without this your next time may be the end of betsy the taurus.How important is to know the firing order in a vehicle when changing spark plugs?
    Suggest to do one at a time, then no need to know firing order

    Saturday, November 20, 2010

    88 celica wont start...winding/whinning noise..distributor?

    I have an 88 celica gt convertible...the car was running good but this morning as i was pulling into the drive way to wash it, it completely just shut off. When I tryed starting it all I here is a winding/whinning noise coming from the distributor. I took off one of the spark plug wires %26amp; put a screw driver to it then tryed turning it on %26amp; got NO spark. I took off the distributor cap %26amp; trying turning it manually but it wont turn. I am guessing its the distributor but maybe you car guys that know more than me can help me out.

    PS..if the distributor is the problem how difficult is it to change? what are something i need to avoid doing so that i install it correctly and not mess up the timing. Please be specific in your response i know the bare minimum about cars. thanks.88 celica wont start...winding/whinning noise..distributor?
    it could be the timing belt check that

    if its broke it will cause the dist not to turn88 celica wont start...winding/whinning noise..distributor?
    You broke the timing belt. Totally agree with the first poster. You may have got lucky too. Since you weren't driving at speed the pistons probably didn't bend the valves. $400 or so to fix the T-belt on a Toyota

    It's amazing to me how many consumers know nothing about timing belts.

    If you know bare minimum, take it to a shop. You won't be able to do a timing belt anyway. A distributor is easy and you could do it but it's more likely the timing belt.
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  • How to improve fuel consumption for 1991 toyota corolla xl5?

    Recently overhauled carburetor, changed jet sizes to 95 %26amp; 110, installed new distributor cap, condenser %26amp; high tension wires and still my fuel consumption is around 6-7km/liter. Also noticed strong smell of gasoline from exhaust pipe which leads me to believe that fuel isn't burning properly which causes high consumption. How do i fix this?How to improve fuel consumption for 1991 toyota corolla xl5?
    I don't know about the %26quot;jetting%26quot; stuff.. but try checking the timing,compression of the cylinders, air cleaner filter and muffler restriction. Keep tire pressures at recommended specs. Good luck!How to improve fuel consumption for 1991 toyota corolla xl5?
    Get a new one and get 39MPG.

    Should I change my spark plugs when I change my spark plug wires on my 1995 Honda civic?

    I have been having some rough idling and choppy acceleration. I did that test where you spray water on the wires at night and see if there is a spark. There was a tiny spark, barely noticeable, on one of them, so I decided Im just going to change them all, even though there isnt any noticable corrosion on the rubber. (Also, a little bit of water got under the distributor cap, and there were lots of little sparks dancing around in there... I know... Im not supposed to get water in there, but I ****** up. does that mean I have a distributor problem? I just replaced a failing distributor with a used one.)

    Anyway, should I change my spark plugs when I change my wires? I dont know the last time they were changed.

    Also, how do I know what size spark plugs/spark plug wires to buy? Are they pretty universal?Should I change my spark plugs when I change my spark plug wires on my 1995 Honda civic?
    It doesn't sound like you have a distributor coil problem. Just dry up all your components from all the water and moisture you've sprayed.

    If you appear to be getting spark on all 4 spark plugs (remove your sparkplug with the cable and tap it against the engine block while cranking about 8 times), inspect your Idle Air Control valve instead.

    Look inside the screen and see if you have carbon build-up clogging air from entering your engine while on idle. If you do see carbon build-up, use carburetor cleaner spray to get the gunk off the screen. Also, clean or replace your Air Filter.

    If this doesn't help, you may want to continue with replacing your distributor rotor, distributor cap, spark plug cables, and spark plugs.

    When you visit your local auto parts store, they will ask you the year, model, make of your car and will give you a list of available parts compatible with your vehicle. I use the cheapest which works just fine for my Civic 95. You can also read the recommended spark plug by Honda in your manual or on the label against your upper timing belt cover.

    Good luck!Should I change my spark plugs when I change my spark plug wires on my 1995 Honda civic?
    Since new plugs will cost next to nothing, and you can eliminate them as a problem, you may as well. You can go for the platinum+4's, which I've had good luck with, splitfire's also, or go for the cheapies if you want to save around $10. Also, you can make sure they're gapped perfectly with most plugs. The gap tool is available at the parts counter for about $2. They can also hook you up with the correct plugs and gap size for your car.Should I change my spark plugs when I change my spark plug wires on my 1995 Honda civic?
    don't know how good you are at work on these cars, but a distributor on this car sucks if you drop the rubber gasket into the engine....might want to let a professional do that.

    but plugs and wires should do the job. engine backpressure is usually a problem for acceleration as well....might want to check your catalytic converter.Should I change my spark plugs when I change my spark plug wires on my 1995 Honda civic?
    take the plugs out and see how they are burning. if they still look good the regage them and put them back in. the man at the parts store can tell you what you need.

    I have a 1993 Honda Civic that is not starting ?

    I really need some advice what to do in order to get my car started.

    Without any prior notice (no noticable performance problems) my car is not starting. I had a friend remove the fuel line while I turned the key and we are getting fuel out of the line. I have also tried the start in neutral test without success. It is however cranking over and getting fuel.

    I have new battery, spark plugs, wires, distributor cap , fuel filter and rotor button still no good news. It did start the car i drove for couple of days then it died this morning again.

    Now, when i checked other honda forum i saw the similar problems with other drivers. The only problem i see now is to change the distributor coil and see if it runs.

    Please send all suggestions to similar problems you faced and how it got fixed.

    Appreciate your help!I have a 1993 Honda Civic that is not starting ?
    you should check to make sure the plugs are firing, it could be the ignition control module. my sister was having the same problem.I have a 1993 Honda Civic that is not starting ?
    Well the coil sends the plugs the sparks so if your getting spark it's probably not that, how was it running when it was running? maybe it jumped time.