Wednesday, November 24, 2010

1965 Impala points need to be changed?

My buddy just got a 65 impala from a friend and the guy said that the points need to be changed. The guy had a tune up on it, wires, distributor cap, rotor button, plugs, and the car wants to turn over but just wont. Any ideas? And if it is the points how do we go about changing them? Also one of the back wheels will not turn, not sure why, they had to drag it onto a trailer. Possibly just needs to be cleaned with braked cleaner or something to loosen up the wheel because I think the car has been sitting for a pretty good time. Any suggestions?1965 Impala points need to be changed?
you can get to the points by taking off the dist cap vaccum advance module and the lower plate and take out the condenser (little round thing) and the points and gap them to the gap specified in a chiltons manual you can just look through the book at the part store to find the gap the rear tire locking up if it has the original or close to original brake pads the tire is locked because the brake pad has rusted to the rotor if it is drum brake than the brake shoe is rusted to the drum just repalace them and your prob will be fixed1965 Impala points need to be changed?
the points are inside the distributor and if they are not gaped to 30mm it won't start .but if you just had a tune up that would be part of it ,the back wheel is the emergency brake on.1965 Impala points need to be changed?
wants to turn over or wants to start? the points are under the distributor cap and will need to be gapped when the cam on the shaft opens them. you do not have to remove all the stuff the other guy said to remove them. if it is trying to start it may just be that they are not set right, or have corrosion on the contacts which can be fixed by using an emery board( for nails) to kinda buff them up by sticking it in between them and lightly sanding them. the stuck wheel is a shoe sticking, as you have enough sense to make sure the ebrake is off. sometimes hammering around on the drum will free them up.

Intermittent miss now full time?

I have a 93 t-100 p/u 334,000 miles, ran strong, always over 20 mpg's then an intermittent miss started, than went to full time miss, I did the easy stuff, new plugs, wires, rotor and new distributor cap, unfortunately it didn't do the trick, I started removing one plug wire at a time while engine running to identify the bad cyl. notice 2 and 6 does not change how the engine is idling, did a compression test and seems as though all are around 125 psi. any ideas, I thought injector, but 2 of them to go bad at the same time, I think would be unlikely, any Ideas or other things to try???? I luv my truckIntermittent miss now full time?
low fuel pessure and or injectors..

What is the deal with Yahoo! spell check?

Is there any way to disable the spell checker while you're writing answers? I need it once in a while, but usually it's just ignorant and distracting. %26quot;Camaro%26quot;, (spell check just popped on, lol) for example. I know how to spell %26quot;Camaro%26quot;. There's no %26quot;e%26quot; in %26quot;Camaro%26quot;. I use %26quot;Camaro%26quot; in many of my answers. And every time I do, the spell check tells me to change it to %26quot;Camry%26quot;. I don't THINK so.

And yet, the last answer I gave had the word %26quot;munged%26quot; in it. As in %26quot;My distributor cap was all munged up.%26quot;

Is that even a word? But not a peep out of spell check. Now don't you think %26quot;Camaro%26quot; or %26quot;Monza%26quot; (another one I use sometimes) are used in conversation more than %26quot;munged%26quot;?

I don't know why this bothers me. It just does. It even made me change %26quot;spellcheck%26quot; to %26quot;spell check%26quot;.

Oops! it looks like I have 8 misspelling(s) in this question. lol Oops, now that's nine.What is the deal with Yahoo! spell check?
I just ignore Yahoo! Spell check and only pay attention to the one in Firefox, which I can train myself (right-click a flagged word, click %26quot;Add to Dictionary%26quot;).What is the deal with Yahoo! spell check?
It ain't a perfect world, and spell checkers are not 100% reliable.

If you want to avoid typing your answers in YA type them in WORD, then simply copy and paste your answers to YA.What is the deal with Yahoo! spell check?
Its just this stupid thing to help the computer think it is smart when realy those of us who know what were are doing are the ones who get most annoyedWhat is the deal with Yahoo! spell check?
Ya I wish.Try typing in a proper name or a web site.Ducati and drives the machine into overdrive

Scooter still not working. What else could be the problem?

Scooter died the other day, put in a new spark plug and fuel filter today, it's still not working. Took it for a test spin afterwards, didn't make it out of the neighborhood. Walked it back home a short ways, tried restarting it, pumping the throttle vigorously until the bike started again and made it back home.

What normally happens: It starts up good the first time but after a few minutes or so, the engine goes out. It just gives up and dies. This happens whether it is idling or in throttle. From start to stop: idle sounds like it is smooth and steady at first, then gaspy and barely holding on. During throttle, it sounds/moves good at first, but then the bike stops, refuses to move, then the engine gives up. I don't know how to explain it except that it reminds me of a gasping or choking sound.

I did change the oil a week and a half ago, a week later it started giving me this problem. The recommendation is 4-stroke 10w-30 motor oil. I couldn't find that (anywhere), so I put in 4-stroke 10w-40 motor oil. Also, it's recommended to use 90+ gas, I use 91 and non-flammable oil should be added to the air filter, but I can't find any so I haven't done that yet, but last I checked the filter looked fine. Fuel filter didn't look too bad, a tiny speck of gunk but nothing major, still wanted to upgrade it from the factory part though. I don't think (or really know) that these are the issue or not, but I figured I'd add it in just in case.

The spark plug when pulled today did have a bunch of gunk buildup around it though. It also had a burn mark line running along the casing that I think was caused by the edge line of the distrubitor cap and the very top tip of the plug that connects inside of the distributor cap, looked slightly warped and burned off.

I'm taking it into the shop tomorrow to get it looked at, I called and told them that I want the carb looked at (forgot to mention the spark plug issues). Since the bike is only 3 months old, has new oil, new sparkplug and new fuel filter, and the gas is of the right octane; the last thing that I can think of is clogged jets in the carb.

With all of this: What do think is the problem?Scooter still not working. What else could be the problem?
Sounds like it could one of 2 things. The breather for the fuel tank is blocked so the bike will run ok for a while until the vacuum created inside the fuel tank becomes so great that not enough fuel will come out and the engine will stall. Not sure what you mean by distributor cap (scooters don't have them) It could be that the spark plug cap is breaking down when it gets hot and the HV spark is tracking down the outside of the spark plug, instead of going across the electrodes as it should.

I doubt that it is the jets blocked. The bike would run like crap right from initial starting.Scooter still not working. What else could be the problem?
Not sure what scooter you have here but some scoots have a charcoal filter for fuel overflows and this can cause an issue.

Let the dealer do their job and provide them with as much information as you can.

Starting 1966 beetle w/1300cc engine, sat for 20 years?

i have found what will be my first car (in a junkyard now). it needs floor pans, some interior work, bondo, blocking, and paint but for the most part, it is worth the money. everything is straight and it only has surface rust. it also has the one year only 1300cc flat 4 VW engine. the great thing about these old VWs is that parts are abundant and cheap (those floor pans are only $220 and bolt in).

my question is, how do i get a 43 year old car, that sat for half its life, to run again. i already know that i am replacing and gaping plugs, raplacing gas, changing the motor oil, getting a new oil filter and cleaning out the carb (maybe a new distributor cap is also a good idea). but will i also need to replace fuel lines or other odds and ends like that? and will i also have to tear the engine down and rebuild it? i havent yet checked if the crank pulley turns or not. this car also has about 56,000 miles and change on the speedo.

thanks for any information.Starting 1966 beetle w/1300cc engine, sat for 20 years?
Oh, yes, you have to replace ALL the lines, just to be careful. An engine that sat for 20+ years? Yes, definitely tear down and rebuilt. Check all the suspension parts, and so on. old Beetles are simple, air cooled and all that, so at least you have no belts and hoses (much) to worry about. Count yourself lucky.

Consult a VW shop and maybe pay them $100-$150 to help you take a hard look at it.


Kasey C, PC guru since Apple II days

C program run. C program crash. C programmer quit.Starting 1966 beetle w/1300cc engine, sat for 20 years?
you dont have to desmantle the engine normally if the engine has all its parts on exaust manifolds ,filters and spark plugs then dust and sand cant get in easy if ..the engine stayed all this time open then sand gets in it will ruin it when u start it..if not .. just check the oil also to see how much dirt it has in the engine..

just change all the parts (plugs,oil etc)... but first before you waste any money see if the crank pulley moves ....Starting 1966 beetle w/1300cc engine, sat for 20 years?
i started one after 15 years all i did was put some gas in. but replace all hoses and the gas tank is gonna be full of rust just get a new one. the old fuel pump will need rebuilt due to the fiber gasket innards will shred under load they will be dry and hard. rebuild the brake system and you should be good from there
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  • Chrysler sebring 2000 2.5l car wont start!?

    I know naturally its a pain to solve some problems on this car. But it cranks over just fine, just won't start. This is what I have tried (2.5L Sebring Conv, 2000)

    I Tested 12v on the 2-way pin to the distributor, I have volts.

    Tested the pulsing between both CAM/Crank Sensor's, Both are pulsing. However, When the cam pulse's it makes a big buzzing sound, and the Crank pulses are random and pulses 7-10 times when turning the crankshaft by hand. Both pulses are reading 5v. (4.97)

    I tested the Ignition Coil Driver (Pin 1 or 6 depends on how you look at it) on the 6-Way Distributor Connection and I am not getting 1.5-2.5V when I try to crank over the engine. The grounds ground the way they should, and I do have good continuity for the ignition coil driver on PCM Connector Pin 4, Just no volts. (Tried testing with wires all together with a paper clip, still no volts.

    I have already swapped out the computer (I was guessing the computer was not calculating the timing right) and it did not fix the prob. I check the timing belt, its timing are right.

    I tested spark a few diff way, with the distributor cap/rotor on with a wire plugged in, With a plug wire directly in the Ignition Coil Tower, and a few other ways.

    I have swapped the ASD Relay out with another one I in the fuse box. I can't find any shorting in any wire I try (That I know of anyway)

    SO the crank/cam sensors are working and sending volts to the PCM. I am getting 12v from the ASD relay to my 2-way pin, I am getting pulsing on my fuel injectors, My Cam/crank sensors are toggling 0-5v, Getting 8.7v on the right CAM/Crank wires, The ground on both Cam/Crank are grounding. The only thing I am not getting is Volts on the Ignition Coil Driver.

    I did the test with the Ignition key (done test before) And as before it shows me no codes. My code reader for the car also shows me no codes. And the buzzing that happens with the cam, the cam shows 5v for every other full rotation of the engine (I think) It does toggle back and forth 0-5v and when the buzzing happens it only happens or is only noticed when I turn the engine by hand. If you think I have over looked something or I have tested something wrong, please send any test you would like me to do. My car has been not running for a month now and could really use the help.

    I am not sure if this will help but heres a link to the all the wireing in the car.

    Just the ignition coil driver (PCM 11 was changed in year 1999-2000 car to PCM 4) Thats the only change I know of.

    Hope this helps!

    Tried almost everything and I am at a lost :(, Please help!%26quot;Chrysler sebring 2000 2.5l car wont start!?
    Sounds to me like YOU should be answering the questions of others. You've done a great deal to try and figure out the problem.


    Their forum is the best when stuff gets this complicated.Chrysler sebring 2000 2.5l car wont start!?
    Hook it up and scan it. A blk/rd wire is the key. Both spark and fuel drivers are PCM located, if the valve timing and grounds and power are present there may be something wrong with the cam, crank timing. A scanner is used first and mechanical inspections next.

    How long until my transmission goes out?

    I have a 2000 mitsubishi eclipse. I'm a mechanic and I specialize in Jaguar, Volvo and Land Rovers. I'm also ASE certified so don't mind using automotive terminology. I have been doing all my oil changes, with eueropean synthetic, and all the maintainance. The car has 135000 miles and has a techtronic 4 speed transmission. Can this car make it until 150000? or am I driving it on borrowed time? The transmission has Mobil one Synthetic transmission fluid (Yes I know Amsoil is better), and the car hard shifts into reverse. Im asking this to know if I should do the big maintainance and a engine overhaul (change all the seals, resurface the heads if I have to) spark plugs, timing belt, wires, distributor cap and all that. I dont wanna do it and have the tranny go out. So.... will it?How long until my transmission goes out?
    My brother drove a 1997 Mercury Sable Wagon that he bought from his parents really cheap. He bought the car with the transmission going out and the check engine light on. He never had to fix anything for the 1.5 years he had the wagon. He drove it slow and went easy on the transmission and it lasted him the whole time before it got really bad. At first it would just slip here and there and shift hard. Then it would slip when he would turn. He got rid of it because he didn't want to out money into to to pass the e-check. Just go easy on the car and it should last a good while longer.